Toledo – What plans?
Woke up more wet than when we went to bed. Outside was beautiful with swarms of birds devouring the pesky bugs, it was Hitchcock-like. Caught the bus again with some old ladies gossiping about the latest scandals. Back in the plaza we knew how to get to the Cathedral and made our way through morning tourists. We went to a back entrance where we stepped in for free and saw much of what we had seen in other places in
Spain. I must admit that I am starting to get used to the massive cathedrals; I don’t want to lose that wonder, but it is difficult to maintain after touring about 5+ cathedrals in a month.
Wandered around and found the church of Santo Tomé which housed El Greco’s “Burial of the Count of Orgaz.” It was worth the 2,30euro. Kept wandering and found a monastery that was going to house the bodies of King Ferdinand and Isabella, however Granada won over their dead bodies! Beautiful cloister with a well, and thick chains outside that used to imprison the Christians – they became a Reconqest symbol of being freed from historical Muslim repression. (Listen to Chris Tomlin’s “Amazing Grace”)
Hannah and I then decided to scrap plans and just explore, letting the city unfold her history for us. In the next few hours we found neat stores, more castle structures, an outside escalator up a hillside (magical), and gradually increasing tourists. I tried marzapan, which is famous there. It was like sweet dough lightly baked, but it made my tummy hurt. I tried it just to say I did, and bought some for friends to see if they enjoy it. All who read this, be prepared for a taste!
Our train left at 3pm and we had a frantic run to the station to make it just in time. Toledo was great, I’m glad we went for as long, or short, as we did.
Back in Madrid we saw Robert on our way to the Riena Sofie Art Museum for free. We saw the incredibly famous “Guernica” by Picasso – black and white with people and animals writhing during World War II. We saw some other pieces, but cut our visit short due to our exhaustion. Back for another night at Hostel Metropol, we dropped off our backpacks in the new room 411, next to our old one. Again, we saw a big black back pack and rightfully assumed we were to be the company of more American boys. I actually was a creeper and read the luggage tag, which proved my assumption when I read “American Airlines.” We did not meet them until later…
One month and no American food can be invigorating but also lonely. My stomach missed the extra salt, sugar and animal fat. Hannah and I had no trouble deciding on T.G.I. Friday’s that night – yes it is popular in Spain, and yes their burgers are unbelievable. Our waiter was from Seville, but we didn’t talk much because he was busy flirting with the table of 8 girls next to us, 2 were having their birthday. In front of me was a mushroom, Swiss, onion burger about the size of my face. You would have thought that Hannah and I had never tasted the savory sensation that a real hamburger brings. It had been a long time, and we enjoyed every bite!
After that experience in and of itself, we set off to discover the highly recommended Temple of Debod. At 10pm the sky was still light, which made finding the park simple. What we found was an oasis of trees and wide running paths, couples and teenage cliques hanging out on the grass, a playful wind and a beautiful evening. Through the trees we saw the Egyptian ruins: 3 standing structures, one was a temple. The impressive trio was set in a shallow pool of water that reflected the last rays of daylight. On the backside of the temple was a panorama view of the city. Hannah and I soaked up the moment of this romantic, serene place.
It was getting late for us day travelers, so we reported back to the Hostel for another night. The “boys” had moved their stuff into one bunk bed unit, unlike before when they took up both bottom beds. Every pair of guys we had seen in and around the hostel, Hannah and I wondered if they were our roommates to be. It had been no longer than 7 minutes when the two busted through the door and the suspense was over.
Meet Alex: a 6’4’’ volleyball player from Dartmouth. Recent graduate in Economics and Geography. He just came from visiting his grandparents in Poland; that is where he lost his luggage. This year he will embark on a grand adventure in Korea to teach English. He is a well-seasoned traveler, but does not know Spanish!
Meet Houston: former tight end for Dartmouth, recent graduate in Economics and Geography as well. Next year he will work for real estate in Atlanta, GA. He was a gentle giant who laughed at a lot. His family is joining him in Spain, just like mine.
Both boys are brothers in the Beta Fraternity, and know Rahul Malik and Andrew von Kuhn from Mtn. Brook – small world! They were also traveling to Seville the following day to catch a bullfight.
We stayed up talking and laughing and sharing stories. I had kind of dreaded the idea of more male roommates, but we were very much blessed both nights in the hostel to stay with these American boys. That was a memorable night…
Longing for Seville
The last morning there, they boys ate breakfast with us and then we parted ways. They went to the Prado, and we explored the Rastro - the largest flea market in Spain! It turned out to be much of what we’ve seen people selling in Seville. We bought Spanish tortilla sandwiches for 1.50e after feeling weak from the incense in the air. Spanish tortillas consist of potatoes and eggs in a thick, hearty omelet – Sooo good!
Hannah and I returned to the hostel for our backpacks, from there we found a place to sit, rest, and read over tea. After 2 hours we were energized to do a bit of real shopping! Our favorite stores had huge discounts that day and we took advantage of the 50-70% sales. With tedious shopping comes an appetite for food, so we explored and found a hand-made pizza parlor “Mt. Vesuvius.” My Tropical (Hawaiian) pizza was in my hands after 10 minutes. We watched them toss dough and decorate it with toppings while we waited outside. I was standing in the sidewalk when, who do you think, Robert is waltzing down the street with his North Face backpack. I called him out and we hugged like best friends. Small talk lasted for a few minutes, another hug, and he was off for lunch too. How random, but cool!
Hannah and I had 45 minutes to get to the 6-hour day bus to Seville. We scurried/ran through the Metro system, eating pizza when we were on the train (always accompanied by hand sanitizer). With 10 minutes to go, we slid into the bus station and I darted to the bathroom. Hannah ended up sitting next to a woman who looked like she had been on the maiden Titanic voyage. I sat next to a dark-skinned man who was a talker. A tasteless Spanish film played while I read a book from my sister, “Evidence Not Seen.” Tried to sleep, but woke up when the bus was pulling g-forces in a mountainous ravine. I understood why people pay 80+ euro for the 2hr AVE train. I missed Seville so much and could not get back soon enough.
Hannah and I felt back at home when we finally exited the bus and headed down the familiar San Jacinto street to our flat. Jose and Amparo were out for coffee when we arrived, but they came back within 20 minutes. I hugged Amparo in the American way and gave two “besitos” to dear Jose – it was Father’s Day. That night Hannah and I shared about the trip over a warm, filling meal with our Spanish parents. There is something special about Seville and the Triana neighborhood specifically that always makes me excited to return from wherever the weekend takes me. A truly special place with a unique personality that is infectious to all who call this place “home.”
Thank you Lord for watching over us this weekend and for delivering us safely “home.” Continue to reveal Yourself to us while we wait to encounter You one day in our heavenly “home”.
No comments:
Post a Comment